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Middlethorpe Hall, York
A little over a mile from York’s historic centre, the 17th-century splendour of Middlethorpe Hall is an oasis of calm set in 20 acres of rolling parkland. Built by Thomas Barlow, an affluent master cutter from Sheffield, it had fallen from grace by the 1980s and been turned into a nightclub. Now owned by the National Trust, it has been sympathetically restored to its former glory. The result is an authentic historic house rather than a commercial hotel. The sitting room is a stunning setting for afternoon tea. With its swagged floor-to-ceiling Georgian windows, pale yellow walls and grand portraits, it gives Castle Howard a run for its money, albeit on a smaller scale. The bedrooms are equally elegant, as are the cottage and garden suites. In the evening, dine on Yorkshire lamb, pea velouté and raspberry crumble soufflé, and work it off the next day in the pool, spa and gym room, tucked away in a pretty converted cottage.
Rooms from £155 B&B, dinner from £45 for three courses, middlethorpe.com
The Alice Hawthorn, Nun Monkton
A country pub with a serious food habit: the Alice Hawthorn. Photograph: Jim Pyner
In a pretty village between York and Harrogate, this charming country pub has recently renovated loft rooms with exposed beams and lovely views across the village green. In the beer garden are wild roses and an outdoor pizza oven. The food’s pretty serious, too – choose from lobster, potted rabbit and roast loin of halibut, followed by Catalan cream.
Doubles from £120 B&B, thealicehawthorn.com
Jet Black Jewel, Whitby
Blue-sky thinking: Whitby Abbey, overlooking the North Sea is a highlight of any visit. Photograph: Alamy
This new guesthouse brings a Gothic touch to Yorkshire’s most dramatic stretch of coast. In a bow-fronted building on Skinner Street, it has a café bar on the ground floor and nine rooms above. From the Monkey Puzzle to the Maharajah Suite, each has a theme from local folklore. An eccentric gem with quirky decor.
Doubles from £80 B&B, jetblackjewel.com
The Principal, York
Understated luxury: the Principal. Photograph: Tim Winter/PR
A paeon to the Victorian railway age just 200m from York’s ancient city walls, this is a hotel with sweeping staircases and lofty ceilings – but isn’t locked to its past. Airy and contemporary in a soothing palette of pastel greys and blues, there’s a luxurious indoor pool and a restaurant serving British cuisine. If you’re pressed for time, there’s a sneaky exit straight on to Platform 1 of York station at the back of the hotel.
Doubles £200 B&B, theprincipalyork.ihg.com
Black Swan, Oldstead
Walkers and talkers: the Black Swan. Photograph: Richard Watson/Alamy
Near Ampleforth in the Howardian Hills, the Black Swan has been the catalyst for Yorkshire’s current culinary fame; in 2013 Tommy Banks was the youngest British chef to win a Michelin star when he took over the kitchen of his parents. There’s rigour here, too, with a single menu each night, drawn from produce grown in the pub’s own farmland. Banks also now produces beers and vermouths to complement the food. Booking several months ahead for one of the nine bedrooms is essential.
Room plus tasting dinner and breakfast from £260 per person, blackswan oldstead.co.uk
The Burgoyne Hotel, Reeth
Elegance and comfort: the Burgoyne
In the heart of the Dales, a country hotel that its many fans think has found the sweet spot between elegance and comfort. There are 11 bedrooms with views on to Swaledale, plus sitting rooms with fires. The 1783 bar and restaurant serves up great food – the rhubarb for the posset comes from its own garden. Late August will see a mix of agricultural shows and the Richmond Walking & Book Festival, 18-26 September.
Doubles from £138 B&B, theburgoyne.co.uk
Shibden Mill Inn, near Halifax
Crowd-pleaser: the Shibden Mill Inn
Between Halifax and Leeds in West Yorkshire, this former spinning and corn mill was once part of Anne “Gentleman Jack” Lister’s estate. Today its 17th-century walls house 11 bedrooms and suites, and a bar and restaurant that spills into the gardens and serves crowd-pleasing food, with steaks and fish and chips on the menu. The former packhorse route that is now the Calderdale Way is nearby and Hebden Bridge and the Hepworth Museum at Wakefield are a short drive away.
Doubles from £95 B&B, shibdenmillinn.com
The Pipe and Glass, South Dalton
This former coaching inn near Beverley offers gourmet heaven in the gentle wolds. The restaurant is Michelin-starred and the 10 bedrooms are luxurious yet rustic. Surrounded by an edible garden and herbarium, the vast majority of ingredients for its menus come from surrounding farms.
Doubles from £200 B&B, pipeandglass.co.uk
The Owl, Hawnby
Relax by the fire: the Owl at Hawnby
Nestled on the North Yorkshire moors, the Owl is close to the ancient village of Rievaulx that features in the Domesday Book. Recently given a Farrow & Ball makeover, there are nine tastefully furnished rooms and rustic pizzas are made in a shepherd’s hut. Hawnby’s Old Smithy is turning into a smokehouse and charcuterie producing pancetta, coppa and bresaola. Guests can also try out charcuterie courses.
Doubles from £129 B&B, theowlhawnby.co.uk
The Wensleydale Hotel, Middleham
Get outside: great walks are just waiting to be explored from Middleham. Photograph: Rebecca Cole/Alamy
Opened in 2019, this 17th-century inn is in a picturesque spot on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales. It’s a labour of love for the owners Charles and Fiona Merchie who are bringing the place back to life room by room. Near Richmond and bisected by the River Ure, Middleham has gallops nearby and the hotel’s Tack Room restaurant delivers meats from the Swinton estate as well as tarte tatin. There are walking trails from the village and rented ebikes can be delivered to the hotel. Fishing can also be arranged.
Doubles from £100 B&B, thewensleydalehotel.com